The Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear show, held in the Cour Carrée of the Louvre Museum, wasn't just a fashion presentation; it was a cultural moment. Marking Virgil Abloh's second season at the helm of the storied French house, the collection represented a powerful synthesis of heritage and radical reinvention, a dialogue between the past and a vibrant, inclusive future. The show itself was a spectacle, a meticulously orchestrated performance that perfectly encapsulated the collection's multifaceted nature, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion world.
Virgil Abloh's Vision: A Legacy Reimagined
Abloh's appointment as Louis Vuitton's menswear artistic director was a seismic event in the fashion industry. His background as a DJ, architect, and founder of the highly influential streetwear label Off-White brought a fresh perspective to the venerable house, one that resonated deeply with a younger, more diverse generation. His SS19 collection wasn't about discarding the Louis Vuitton legacy; instead, it was about engaging with it, reinterpreting it, and ultimately, expanding its reach. He didn't shy away from the iconic monogram; rather, he utilized it as a building block, deconstructing and reconstructing it, playing with scale and context to create a dynamic and surprisingly versatile language.
The show itself reflected this approach. The setting, the majestic Cour Carrée, provided a stark contrast to the often-rebellious spirit of Abloh's designs. This juxtaposition was deliberate, highlighting the tension between established luxury and contemporary street style that lay at the heart of the collection. The models, a diverse cast representing a broad spectrum of ethnicities, ages, and body types, further underscored Abloh's commitment to inclusivity, challenging the traditional narrow definition of luxury fashion. This wasn't just about showcasing clothes; it was about showcasing a vision, a philosophy, and a community.
Runway Looks: A Tapestry of Influences
The SS19 collection was a vibrant tapestry woven from various threads of inspiration. Classic tailoring was reimagined with a distinctly contemporary edge, often incorporating elements of streetwear and sportswear. Oversized silhouettes, bold graphics, and unexpected colour combinations were hallmarks of the show. The monogram, as mentioned, played a central role, appearing in unexpected ways – emblazoned across tailored jackets, subtly woven into knitwear, and even deconstructed and reassembled as patchwork details.
One of the most striking features of the collection was the masterful use of colour. Vibrant hues, from sunshine yellow to electric blue, were juxtaposed with more muted tones, creating a dynamic and visually arresting effect. This playful use of colour extended to the accessories, with brightly coloured bags and shoes adding a pop of energy to even the most understated outfits.
The tailoring itself deserves special mention. While Abloh embraced modern silhouettes, he clearly understood and respected the tradition of Louis Vuitton's tailoring expertise. The jackets, trousers, and coats were impeccably constructed, showcasing the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship even as it embraced a more experimental aesthetic. The collection demonstrated a remarkable balance between structure and fluidity, with many pieces featuring relaxed fits and draped fabrics that contrasted beautifully with sharper, more structured elements.
The collection showcased a wide range of garments, from impeccably tailored suits to relaxed tracksuits, highlighting Abloh's ability to cater to a diverse range of styles and preferences. There were playful takes on classic menswear staples, like the reimagined denim jacket or the updated bomber, alongside more formal pieces that hinted at a sophisticated, understated elegance. The layering was particularly noteworthy, with multiple pieces often worn together to create complex and visually interesting ensembles.
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